Two-toned rimmed hat.



G. P. COMBY. TWO-TONBD BIMMED HAT. APPLIUATION FILED IBB. 9, 1910.

1,096,827, Patented May 19, 1914.

. another color, the

ture of these hats,

GEAORGE P. COMEY, OF CLEVELAND, OHIO.

TWO-TONED RIMMED HAT.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented lVIay 19, 1914.

Application filed February 9, 1910. Serial No. 542,931.

To all whom t may concern Be it known that I, GEQRGE P. COMEY, a citizenof the United IStates, residing at Cleveland, in thecounty of Cuyahoga.and State of Ohio, have`invented certain new and useful Improvements inTwo-Toned Rimmed Hats, of which the following4 is a specification.

In the millinery industry there are hats which are termed two-toned rimhats wherein the upper surface of the rim is of one material and colorand the under surface is of another material, and preferably of twopieces of material being secured together and forming the twotoned rimreferred to, and in the manufacit is customary to apply a wirestifi'ener to the edge and to roll the under covering, which is usuallyof velvet, over this wire andto hold such covering in place by the-useof glue or some other similarmaterial. This is particularly true of theFrench two-toned rimmed hat, where the velvet is usually extended beyondthe hat rim, and the stiffener of Wire, and is Worked over onto theupper side around the wire and fastened thereto by glue or some othersimilar material so that a round bead is produced on the upper side andadjacent to the edge of the hat rim. A rim finished in this way presentsa v ery neat appearance but it requires considerable time to bind theedge in this manner, and moreover the edge is very frail andbecomesloose in places so that it must again be fastened down so that greatcare must be taken in handling the hat in order to avoid this looseningof the binding.

The present invention, therefore, relates to a hat having the edge afits rim bound in a manner such that it presents as neat an appearance asdoes the French hat, and further to the art of binding the rim4 of thistype, of hat, whereby it is rendered durable and practical so far asutility is concerned.

In conducting the method and producing the finished article, the formedhat, which is usually of straw, is provided wlth a facing for theunderside of the rim consisting preferablyjof a stiffening layer offabric`such as buckram having secured to it the material which forms thelower facing. In the present instance this facing is velvet. Both ofthese thicknesses are shaped to conform to the configuration of ing ofthe rim, ve V the undersideof the rim of the hat. After trimming theedges of these two layers, the stifiencr of buckram and the facing ofvelvet, so as to correspond 4to the configuration of the edge of therim, a narrow bias binding corresponding to the facing is secured faceto face along the edge of the facing of velvet by a row of stitchingwhich passes throu h all the thicknesses at this point. An e gestiii'encr is then applied to these three layers for the purpose ofholding the edge. in place. This edge stiidener is of wire or any othersuitable material and is secured in place in the usual manner by the useof a sewing machine designed for that purpose. After this has beenaccomplished, then the bias binding is turned over the Wire stiffenerand back upon the upper face of the rim stiffener of buckram, when theentire under facing is ready to be applied to the rim of the hat, andthis is accomplished by placing the hat rim upon the buckram so that itlaps over onto the edge of the binding which, as stated, has beendoubled back onto the upper face of the rim stiifenerand a row ofstitching is applied through the rim of the hat through the binding,through the rim stiffener of buckrain, and through the under facing, andclose up to the edge of the bias binding where it doubles back from theunder facing. In order that this row of stitching shall be close to thisedge, I employ a form of presser foot, for the sew ing machine, having agroove on the underside thereof adjacent to and along one side of theyneedle from front to back and arranged to hold the bead formed b ing, asit laps over the under acing, u right and away from the surface of tiieunder facing so lthat the needle may pass close beside 1t and place therow of stitching close up to its edge, whereby when the hat is removedfrom the machine the flattening out of the bead formed on the underfactogether with the nap of et, if such a facmg is used, will entirelyhide the row of stitching. Usually the thread used for this stitching isof a dif-v ferent color from the under facin and corresponds in' tone tothe color 0I the rim of :the hat so that it must be hidden.

The invention still further relates, to certain details of constructionof the article and to the art of producing the same as will be moreclearly set forth in the accompanying specication, claim and drawings.

the bindstitching near the edge thereof; Fig. 3 'is a similar view withthe edge stifener of wire 10.

or other similar material secured thereto;

n Fig. 4 shows the binding turned over the edge stifener and with thehat rim in placeg v Fig. represents the several parts 1n the positionshown in Fig. 4 with the bottom side upward so that the bead engages inthe groove formed on the underside of the presser foot; and Fig. 6 showsportions of the complete article with'the-bead hiding the row ofstitching which secures the hat rim lto the rim stilfener and facing.

In producing the finished article, the configuration of the rim 1 istransferred or Vduplicated in a well known manner on a Fig. 3 and tsheet of stiening material 2 such as buckram `which forms a' stidenerfor the rim and which I will hereinafter refer to as the rim stiifener.It also forms a backing for the under facing 3 which is usually ofvelvet and which is secured to the stiifener 2 in any suitable manner.Therim stifener 2 as well as the facing 3 are applied tothe hat rim andcut suiiiciently sol that they conform to the edge of the rim of thehat. A bias binding 4, preferably of velvet and corresponding in shadeto the facng is then secured withv its face toward vthe face of thefacing andf to the rim stiflr'ener 2 by means of a row of stitching 5which is preferably as close to the ed e of the arts as is practical. Anedge sti ener 6 o wire, or other suitable material, is then sewed-'bystitches 7 to the edge of the arts 2, 3 and 4 as is shown in e binding 4is turned over this to the drawings, Figure 1f shows other similar outof the way of,

edge sti'ener and back onto the upper face of the rim stiener 2 as isshown in Fig. 4. When the binding 4 is of bias material it will turnback nicely in the manner just described and the edge will be extremelyneat.

The next step is the the hat to the rim of the parts just described, andthis is accomplished by a row of stitching 8 passing through the severalthicknesses of the under facing and of the rim and close to the it isfolded back y In bringing stitching 8 close to theedge of the binding, apresser foot 9 is'employed having a groove 10 from front to backadjacent to the needle opening 11 whereby the wall of the groove willhold the edge of thebead close to, but the point of the needle,

edge of the binding wherev from the under facing.

thus permitting the 4 c close to this edge. 'After these stltches areformed the binding will spread out over the stitching and hide it nostitching at this point as is shown 1n Fig. 6. U n

Having described my invention, I cla1m A hat comprising a crown, astraw' rim, and an'under facing onsisting of a layer of stifi'ening, afacing layer of fabric, and a binding of fabric first secured by a rowof stitching against the facing layer and near the outer edge thereofand then doubled over the same forming a finishing bead at the edge,said entire facing beingr secured to the rim of the hat by means of arow of stitching.

` In testimony whereof I aiix my signature in presence of two witnessesas follows:

Y GEORGE I. COM'EY.

Witnesses: A AL'ro'N H. BEMIS,

from view so that ordiv narily it would appear as though there wasIsewing of the rim of` about the location of the stitches to be formed

